Phrae and Nan — Travels with George

Recently, George and I took a guided, 2 night, 3 day bus tour of Phrae and Nan, two small cities in northeastern Thailand, about 5 hours drive from Chiang Mai. The tour was organized by Payap University through the department of Life Long Learning. There were about 30 of us, mostly expats, a tour manager and a very knowledgeable guide.

The goal of the tour was to see textiles, murals, wats, and learn a little about the history of some Thai ethnic groups. Both Phrae and Nan were prominent cities of the Lanna Kingdom with rich histories and culture before submitting to the Siam Kingdom in 1892. In 1949 Siam became Thailand.

This was one of the more interesting tours I’ve ever taken. Our guide was Dr. Ratanaporn Sethakul, formerly Dean of the Graduate School and history professor at Payap University, so her explanations were very thorough. And a few in the group were also very knowledgeable about Thai history so no questions went unanswered.

It was a great group of people on the bus which made the long hours on the bus more interesting. There were no whiners or loud mouths. Most of the expats have traveled quite a bit, and many had great stories to tell about their nomadic adventures. Some have lived in Thailand for more than 30 years while others are part-time residents. There were Americans, Swiss, Finns, Canadians, Brits, Australians, Thai, and more.

The highlight of the trip were the murals in Wat Phumin, Nan, commissioned in 1867 by the last King of Nan. Many of the murals depict scenes from the Jātaka tales native to India concerning past lives of Buddha. The particular tale chosen by the Kin… — The highlight of the trip were the murals in Wat Phumin, Nan, commissioned in 1867 by the last King of Nan. Many of the murals depict scenes from the Jātaka tales native to India concerning past lives of Buddha. The particular tale chosen by the King is an orphan story meant to subtly criticize the Siam court in Bangkok following the Paknam Incident (read below). But most of the murals depict the culture and everyday life of the many Thai Lue people who migrated to Nan in 1836 but originally from Yunnan, China whose history was first recorded in 1180. The Thai Lue artist Thit Buaphan painted for more than 20 years. Here we have 3 western (beards and hats) missionaries with their bibles.

Wat Phumin is noted for its cruciform ubosot (main temple) which is unusual since most ubosots are rectangular. Inside are four Buddhas, facing in four directions, all in the Sukhothai style. They are all in the pose of Buddha subduing Mara, one of … — Wat Phumin is noted for its cruciform ubosot (main temple) which is unusual since most ubosots are rectangular. Inside are four Buddhas, facing in four directions, all in the Sukhothai style. They are all in the pose of Buddha subduing Mara, one of the most common poses (there are over 100). Note the beautiful teak pillars which support the roof.

This, along with the Whispering lovers below, is nearly life size and gives us a good picture of the Thai Lue style beginning with the hair piece, the hand rolled cheroot and the beautiful woven sarong.

The murals were painted at a time when the former kingdom of Nan was losing territory to the French as it became incorporated into Siam. It shows the French warships during the Paknam Incident of 1893 which resulted in Siam giving much of Nan’s land… — The murals were painted at a time when the former kingdom of Nan was losing territory to the French as it became incorporated into Siam. It shows the French warships during the Paknam Incident of 1893 which resulted in Siam giving much of Nan’s lands to the French. This panel shows westerners (beards and hats) unloading goods and a French warship (bottom right). The narwhal may be the artist’s way of describing an ocean.

This is probably the most renowned portion of the mural. Labelled by the artist in the local dialect as “poo marn yar marn (“whispering of love”) it has become better known to most Thais as “grasip” which translates to English as the “whispering.” A… — This is probably the most renowned portion of the mural. Labelled by the artist in the local dialect as “*poo marn yar marn* (“whispering of love”) it has become better known to most Thais as “*grasip*” which translates to English as the “whispering.” Almost life size, it is much larger than most sections and depicts a tattooed Thai Lue man whispering to his lover who is wearing beautiful Thai Lue textiles. The tattooed man is said to be artist Thit Buaphan. You can find this image on canvas bags, posters, mugs, coasters, and any souvenir you can imagine.

Our guide Professor Ratanaporn Sethakul (left) is posing with Tai Lue women from the Nong Bua village just north of Nan. The village continues to retain much of its traditional culture including the distinctive Tai Lue textiles that are produced at … — Our guide Professor Ratanaporn Sethakul (left) is posing with Tai Lue women from the Nong Bua village just north of Nan. The village continues to retain much of its traditional culture including the distinctive Tai Lue textiles that are produced at a local cooperative. The skirts (*phaa sin*) the women are wearing are very finely woven and take 4 to 6 weeks, 8 hours/day to complete. Notice how similar their patterns are to the skirts in the mural.

When we arrived at the Wat Nong Bua, we were greeted by the Tai Lue women and offered this refreshment. In the glass is a chilled herbal tea which is said to make one strong enough to lift a water buffalo. The green cubes are a lightly sweetened gel… — When we arrived at the Wat Nong Bua, we were greeted by the Tai Lue women and offered this refreshment. In the glass is a chilled herbal tea which is said to make one strong enough to lift a water buffalo. The green cubes are a lightly sweetened gelatin treat (a delicate flavor from a plant I do not recognize) and the banana leaves were stuffed with sweet sticky rice, banana and mango. What a treat!

…the men’s washroom next door to the Wat in Nong Bua. I walked by twice before I realized what it was.

Acharn Komol Panichpun has spent a lifetime collecting northern Thai textiles. Over the years, he and his museum near Nan have won numerous national awards, and many presented by King Rama IX himself. His small collection is impressive, and his pass… — Acharn Komol Panichpun has spent a lifetime collecting northern Thai textiles. Over the years, he and his museum near Nan have won numerous national awards, and many presented by King Rama IX himself. His small collection is impressive, and his passion reflected everywhere.

Mr. Panichpun has seen a decline in the weaving arts so to interest children he has dressed Barbie and Ken dolls in miniature replicas of antique pieces. He had about 60-70 dolls on display along with a few superheros to liven things up.

Wat Phra That Cho Hae near Phrae is a Royal temple dating back to the 14th century. This ornate steel fence encircles the 110 feet high chedi which holds a hair relic and a fragment of the elbow bone of the Buddha given to the Wat by the Indian King… — Wat Phra That Cho Hae near Phrae is a Royal temple dating back to the 14th century. This ornate steel fence encircles the 110 feet high chedi which holds a hair relic and a fragment of the elbow bone of the Buddha given to the Wat by the Indian King Ashoka in the 3rd century BC. The Buddha’s hair relic is wrapped in fine silk cloth; hence the name of the Wat - “temple of the relic wrapped in satin cloth”. By the way, George wants me to mention that silk weaving was invented by the Chinese over 5,000 years ago.

Many pilgrims visit the Wat. The viharn holds the revered Buddha statue believed to impart fertility to women. Some of the outside structures are painted a very bright white which highlights the stucco and glass decoration around the doors and windo… — Many pilgrims visit the Wat. The viharn holds the revered Buddha statue believed to impart fertility to women. Some of the outside structures are painted a very bright white which highlights the stucco and glass decoration around the doors and windows. The glass mosaics twinkled in the sunlight. Mmmmm….I’m thinking about recreating this at our home in Belvedere.

Khanohm jeen (originated in the 6th century by the Mon people of Myanmar) are thin, fermented rice noodles usually served with curry. This lady rinses the noodles several times in water then winds them around her finger to make individual servings. … — *Khanohm jeen* (originated in the 6th century by the Mon people of Myanmar) are thin, fermented rice noodles usually served with curry. This lady rinses the noodles several times in water then winds them around her finger to make individual servings. Often served at weddings, the long, elastic noodles suggest longevity and resiliency of the couple’s love.

In the late 1800’s Phrae was the teak capital of the world. Built for Phrae royalty, Baan Wong Buri house was constructed of teak wood in the European “Gingerbread” style popular then. Many of the laborers were Chinese who had run away from the near… — In the late 1800’s Phrae was the teak capital of the world. Built for Phrae royalty, Baan Wong Buri house was constructed of teak wood in the European “Gingerbread” style popular then. Many of the laborers were Chinese who had run away from the nearby railway construction projects. It’s a great place to wander through and get an idea of how the ruling class lived in the 19th century. There are lots of antiques, photographs and documents which tell their own stories, e.g., contracts for slave *mahouts* to work the elephants in the lucrative teak industry (mainly for the British). Thailand banned logging in 1989.

These young monks had just placed this merit-making tree on their truck. Buddhists can make merit (thambun) by tying baht notes to the tree: the Wat receives financial support and the donor earns merit. Thambun contributes to the donor’s personal gr… — These young monks had just placed this merit-making tree on their truck. Buddhists can make merit (*thambun*) by tying baht notes to the tree: the Wat receives financial support and the donor earns merit. *Thambun* contributes to the donor’s personal growth towards enlightenment and helps determine the quality of the next life. Usually monks avoid being photographed but Professor Ratanaporn Sethakul persuaded the monks to pose for George. She later told us that they did so out of respect for her.