Ode to the Neighborhood

George and I are still enamored with our neighborhood of Santitham and continue to discover new streets and places. Once or twice a week we have dinner in a restaurant across the street from a 7-Eleven, and we will spend an hour eating and watching the comings and goings. And the shop owners wave to us as we bicycle around.

We have a small list of coffee houses we like, and the newest one opens at 7 a.m. George found a small boba tea shop which fits only 3 people. And for fruit smoothies we are willing to wait in a long line because the 2 young ladies behind the counter are so cute and cheerful. We continue to find new and different places to eat. Yesterday we ate Japanese ramen, and today we had Taiwanese dumplings. I also found a yarn shop nearby with a surprisingly good selection.

There are about 10,000 7-Elevens in Bangkok alone. Here in Chiang Mai, there is one on almost every block. Ours, just around the corner, is busy all day and all evening. As well as the usual necessities like water and toilet paper, the store also ca…

There are about 10,000 7-Elevens in Bangkok alone. Here in Chiang Mai, there is one on almost every block. Ours, just around the corner, is busy all day and all evening. As well as the usual necessities like water and toilet paper, the store also carries a large selection of ready to eat meals. One entire isle is devoted to over 20 varieties of instant noodles, a food staple for nearby Chiang Mai University students. People use the ATM and top off their phone plans at the kiosks by the door. And most people pay their household bills (electricity, water, internet, etc.) at the counter.

Hard liquor and beer are sold only between the hours of 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.

We found a restaurant that specializes in Thai green papaya salad (lower right) called som tam. It is often eaten with sticky rice (in the baskets) or cold rice noodles. And we found a fun shortcut to the restaurant, through what we call karaoke all…

We found a restaurant that specializes in Thai green papaya salad (lower right) called som tam. It is often eaten with sticky rice (in the baskets) or cold rice noodles. And we found a fun shortcut to the restaurant, through what we call karaoke alley which we think is a red light area.

The papaya salad and the mango salad (top photo) are made by pounding red peppers, garlic, chili paste, and fish sauce in a large mortar. Green beans are added and pounded a bit then the julienned green papaya is thrown in for some more pounding. The salad is topped with roasted peanuts and dried shrimp.

Somehow the Chinese cemetery made it to our “must-see” list. Rows and rows of elegant Chinese gravestones provide a good indication of the former wealth of the Chinese who settled in the area.

Somehow the Chinese cemetery made it to our “must-see” list. Rows and rows of elegant Chinese gravestones provide a good indication of the former wealth of the Chinese who settled in the area.

Eggs are an inexpensive protein, and the Thai use a lot of them. For an extra 5 THB (15 cents) one can add a fried, hard or semi-soft boiled egg to any dish including soup. One of my favorite desserts is made with tapioca, sweetened coconut milk, an…

Eggs are an inexpensive protein, and the Thai use a lot of them. For an extra 5 THB (15 cents) one can add a fried, hard or semi-soft boiled egg to any dish including soup. One of my favorite desserts is made with tapioca, sweetened coconut milk, and a poached egg.

The red pick-up truck whizzing by is a traditional songthaew (meaning two rows of bench seats) - shared transportation if you’re going in the same general direction. Songthaew and GRAB (basically Uber) drivers compete fiercely.

Wat Rajamontean is just a few blocks away from us.

Wat Rajamontean is just a few blocks away from us.

The Thai government has made a concerted effort to improve the nation’s waste management infrastructure. Policies include incentives to both local governments and private industry to increase the country’s recycling rate to 22%. Our condo complex en…

The Thai government has made a concerted effort to improve the nation’s waste management infrastructure. Policies include incentives to both local governments and private industry to increase the country’s recycling rate to 22%. Our condo complex encourages recycling, and a fellow comes by at least once a week to load up his trailer with bottles, cans, and plastics. I hope he does not have to go far with his load.

The broom man pedals his wares around to the different neighborhoods. If you buy a broom from him he will trim it according to its purpose (indoor tile floors, sidewalk or street).

The broom man pedals his wares around to the different neighborhoods. If you buy a broom from him he will trim it according to its purpose (indoor tile floors, sidewalk or street).

The local Siriwattana market always has a big selection of ready to eat foods for take-away.

The local Siriwattana market always has a big selection of ready to eat foods for take-away.

We see this man all over the city. He walks his coconut ice cream cart from morning until night, 7 days a week. The ice cream, which he serves with chocolate sauce and condensed milk, is pretty good. He had to take a call while posing with me.

We see this man all over the city. He walks his coconut ice cream cart from morning until night, 7 days a week. The ice cream, which he serves with chocolate sauce and condensed milk, is pretty good. He had to take a call while posing with me.

This fellow in our neighborhood prepares his food outside his house and sells it later on the street behind our condo building. He always has a smile and a Thai “hello” for us. The other day he sold us some fish just off the grill, and it was delici…

This fellow in our neighborhood prepares his food outside his house and sells it later on the street behind our condo building. He always has a smile and a Thai “hello” for us. The other day he sold us some fish just off the grill, and it was delicious. Also on the grill are sai oua (Thai pork sausage), pork small intestines, and aeb ong aw (spiced pork brain with herbs wrapped in banana leaves). He always wears several layers of clothes not matter how hot the day is.

This is one way to relocate.

This is one way to relocate.

It’s Saturday morning, and these neighborhood boys are going fishing in the Ping River.

It’s Saturday morning, and these neighborhood boys are going fishing in the Ping River.